Scotland 2023 Day 3: Hardwick Hall and Bakewell Old House Museum

Between the heat, our interrupted sleep, and the general effects of jet lag, we were both pretty tired when 8A rolled around and my phone alarm went off. We showered and went down to breakfast, where we both eschewed anything ambition and each got eggs over toast. Even that was a challenge for me, as my body was still convinced it was midnight and didn’t really want to put more food into my stomach. However, we got through breakfast and checked out, heading for Chesterfield and Hardwick Hall.

On our way out, Eileen commented that Newport Pagnell is clearly “just a place where people live”. Totally agree. It isn’t a tourist spot – most shops we passed closed at 4P on Mondays – and had nothing of any real interest to recommend it.

The drive to Hardwick Hall took just over 90 minutes on the M1. We had a pretty good amount of rain on the drive, as well as some fog. Driving on gray motorways in a gray rain with a grey fog and (mostly) gray cars made for some challenging moments where visibility is concerned, but we soon found our way following signs directing us to Hardwick. As expected, however, the second time in the car was much better than the first. I’m more comfortable with the car now, particularly where lining up in the lane left to right is concerned, and we’ve gotten smarter about writing down key info about the roundabouts at the start of the journey. Basically, we’re spending less time counting exits and more focused on the road names to scan the signs for. We got to Hardwick soon after opening, but there were already a surprising number of cars presents. The car park was probably 70% full, and would approach 100% by the time we were leaving after lunch.

Hardwick was a bit of a “meh”. Interestingly enough, a big part of the marketing for Hardwick emphasizes the architectural incorporation of windows everywhere, quoting the standard doggerel “Hardwick Hall, more window than wall”, but none of the onsite materials posted seemed to make any mention of it. Hardwick mostly came across as “the place with tons of meh tapestries”. There were a boatload of docents posted throughout the property who were quite excited to chat, but there was no real “hook” to the house as far as we were concerned. We wrapped up our trip faster than planned (partially because the wet weather dissuaded us from wandering the gardens) and were on the road to Bakewell right after lunch, arriving about 2P.
The approach to Hardwick Hall.  This, along with a lot of CGI, was used as Malfoy Manor in Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows. When we were there this part of the grass path was closed.  We picked our way through the garden on the other side of the right-hand hedge and emerged at the intersection in the background.


A couple of statues hidden in the hedges outside Hardwick Hall.





Hardwick Hall is known for its many tapestries, which they had recently completed conservation work on and we apparently were seeing ALL the tapestries for the first time in decades.  Ironically, while the tapestries are a main feature of the house the National Trust acknowledges that the works themselves are not particular GOOD.  Beth Hardwick apparently didn't spend top dollar for what she purchased.
 
Earlier in the morning I’d received email from Avenue House with self-checkin details in case we arrived after they’d left. However, as we were gathering the room card from the lockbox he door opened and Jeorgi, the girl manning the office during the morning and early afternoon, greeted us and welcomed us in. Our room on the 3rd landing was up narrow stairs which required us to lug our luggage with us, but our room was nice.

After a quick pit stop, we ventured back outside and made a 15 minute walk to the Bakewell Old House Museum. Along the way we had a rather dramatic sighting of All Saints Church Bakewell when we rounded a corner and found it majestically displayed in front of us. Completely unexpected and quite a nice surprise! If we’d had a bit more energy (and the Old House Museum wasn’t going to close in about 90 minutes) we would have tried to go inside. Didn’t know it at the time but the church dates from about 990 and has the best collection of original stonework anywhere in England – although the current building dates from about 1230, with the original stonework having been discovered at that time and either incorporated in the rebuild of 1220-1240, or perhaps on display inside? Not sure. Our path took us right through the graveyard outside the church filled with tombstones from (mostly) the 1800s to the museum.


All Saints Church Bakewell was at the top of a hill, but hidden from view until we came around the corner of a pathway taking us to the Bakewell Old House Museum.  As such, it was a pretty dramatic reveal.  If we'd had more time (and hadn't been so tired) we would have probably taken a peek inside. As it was, we needed to hustle over to the Museum before it closed.  It was located behind and to the left of the church.

The museum was one of those unexpected finds that pop up from time to time. The house itself IS the topic of much of the museum, accompanied by some exhibits illustrating several facets of life in Bakewell at various times. We spent about an hour – and would have likely spent more if our brains weren’t still tired. However, we were kind of glossing over a lot of the informative text scattered around the rooms so we probably missed a lot of good stuff.

We walked back down into central Bakewell and found a charming little town, fairly busy with pedestrian activity. We window shopped, including one place advertising vacation rental homes and another real estate firm showing homes for purchase. Alas, no ice cream or other snack place leapt out at us, which was a shame as we were getting a little puckish. So we ended up back at Avenue House around 330P or so and available ourselves of a couple of packs of complimentary cookies up in our room while catching up on email, etc. (I’m typing up today’s earlier activities as part of this downtime). We know we SHOULD be maximizing our time here by being outside exploring…but we’re also not in our 20’s anymore and we’re aware that we’re not as spry as we once were, nor are we rebounding from the long flight and time change as quickly as we used to. So, yes, we are sitting in our room on our tablets when there’s a lovely town outside to see…and we’re OK with that!

Dinner for the evening was atThe Woodyard, an English restaurant alongside the River Wye housed in an old marble works dating from 1810. At some point in the building’s history it was apparently split into two, with the second part becoming a woodyard. There’s a glass floor in the bar area where you can see the old millstream running through the building. The restaurant was a simply 9-10 minute walk from Avenue House, along streets we hadn’t seen on our earlier trip to the Old House Museum. At one point we had to cross the river on a small foot bridge. From a distance, we both thought the bridge had two stone sides, but upon getting closer we realized that the “stones” were actually…padlocks! Hundreds – maybe thousands – of padlocks were clipped to the bridges side rails, many with notes attached. Obviously a local custom.

A very pleasant walk alongside the River Wye on our way to The Woodyard.  We'll be crossing the bridge in a moment.

The river was surprisingly shallow - we could see the bottom easily.

From a distance, we'd thought the sides of the bridge were small stones.  Turned out that they were padlocks - hundreds (thousands?) of them!  Some of them had notes or other trinkets attached to them.

Dinner itself was quite nice. It wasn’t pub food at all – I basically didn’t study the menu enough ahead of time. It was more “upscale English”. E had a risotto while I had seabass on top of smashed potatoes. We both enjoyed our dishes a lot. For dessert we had planned to get a Bakewell Pudding, since that’s the town’s claim to fame, but upon review we discovered that they had crushed almonds in theirs, so that was off the menu. We instead got a Biscoff Cheesecake which also had a scoop of salted caramel ice cream along with a drizzle of fresh caramel. It was a great finish to a nice meal. I happened to do a conversion of the bill to USD – the whole meal cost us $56. Bargain!

While still partly cloudy after dinner, the rain was gone and the temp was probably in the low 60s, making for a very pleasant walk back to The Avenue. We climbed the stairs which, if anything, got steeper while we were eating, and ended the evening with brainy game shows on TV before turning in at a more reasonable 10P.

Our room at Avenue House. The lucite chairs were a bit funky, but the room was pretty nice.  A recurring problem throughout the trip was that most bedrooms lacked A/C and the beds were equipped with down comforters, so temperature control at bedtime was sometimes a challenge.  This bedroom was on the top floor, up some very narrow stairs - it was a bit of a squeeze to get our luggage up the stairs.


The view from our bedroom.  Although there was a gas station directly across the street (to the left, in this picture), we were basically in a residential area.  However, the commercial district was just a short 0.2 mile walk away, in the opposite direction shown in this photo.  So it wasn't like being on Firefly and surrounded by miles of suburbs.  The road on the left was a relatively busy A6 road.






0 comments: